Scalemaster 150 water Softner leak

[Fadburty]

Hi all

I have a Scalemaster 150 water Softner. It seems to be leaking. I'm guessing the water is high in the salt tank which causes it to leak from the over flow.

Can anyone advice what I could do?

 

[Brambles]

I would call Scalemaster in Stone and seek their advice. The level of water in the salt bin is normally determined by the timer controlling the Softener valve rotation at the end of the recharge process and not a level sensor. So there could be an issue with the Softener valve. If is does require a new valve, it is often cheaper to replace the complete softener. The softener valve is expensive and difficult to fit (achieve a water tight seal with the “O” ring to the catalytic vessel).

Alternatively the seal with the catalytic vessel may be leaking into the salt bin, causing it to increase in level after a recharge cycle. The way to test this is to recharge the softener, remove water with a mug until it is well below the over flow and mark the water level. It should not change - unless of course the softener recharges. If the water level increases it is probably a failed “O” ring seal between the valve and the vessel. To change it, requires the valve head to be removed. If that is the issue and the softener is more than 8 years old, I would change the mol sieve in the vessel at the same time. The “O” ring can be quite hard to reseal properly and will need lubricating with potable “O” ring grease.

Don’t leave it. If the overflow cannot handle any discharge and brine overflows into the kitchen - it is very difficult to get rid of the salt and can / will cause long term damage to solid floors, metallic objects, chipboard kitchen furniture et al.

 

[Fadburty]

I would call Scalemaster in Stone and seek their advice. The level of water in the salt bin is normally determined by the timer controlling the Softener valve rotation at the end of the recharge process and not a level sensor. So there could be an issue with the Softener valve. If is does require a new valve, it is often cheaper to replace the complete softener. The softener valve is expensive and difficult to fit (achieve a water tight seal with the “O” ring to the catalytic vessel).

Alternatively the seal with the catalytic vessel may be leaking into the salt bin, causing it to increase in level after a recharge cycle. The way to test this is to recharge the softener, remove water with a mug until it is well below the over flow and mark the water level. It should not change - unless of course the softener recharges. If the water level increases it is probably a failed “O” ring seal between the valve and the vessel. To change it, requires the valve head to be removed. If that is the issue and the softener is more than 8 years old, I would change the mol sieve in the vessel at the same time. The “O” ring can be quite hard to reseal properly and will need lubricating with potable “O” ring grease.

Don’t leave it. If the overflow cannot handle any discharge and brine overflows into the kitchen - it is very difficult to get rid of the salt and can / will cause long term damage to solid floors, metallic objects, chipboard kitchen furniture et al.

Hi thank you for taking the time out to reply. I have taken the water out as per instructed.

If it is the seal with catalytic vessel, where would I be able to find the "O"ring and the Mol Sieve?

Is this fairly straightforward to do? Are there any instructions on this?

 

[Brambles]

The mol sieve - or softener resin as it is sometimes known - is available from Ionic. You will need to measure the volume of the old mol sieve and replace it with the same volume.
The O ring can be measured and sourced from any O ring supplier or from Wrekin Water who hold spares for the valves - most softeners use the same (Fleck) or very similar valves

 

[Fadburty]

The mol sieve - or softener resin as it is sometimes known - is available from Ionic. You will need to measure the volume of the old mol sieve and replace it with the same volume.
The O ring can be measured and sourced from any O ring supplier or from Wrekin Water who hold spares for the valves - most softeners use the same (Fleck) or very similar valves

Hi, are you able to provide a link to these parts?

Also I notice when the hot water is used, I can see the water is powdery due to the s

 

[Brambles]

Best to just Google them for the phone numbers and call. Both companies are very resposive

 

[Fadburty]

Best to just Google them for the phone numbers and call. Both companies are very resposive

Thank you.

I noticed the brine was installed incorrectly so I have placed it in the correct way.

I will call scalemaster when they open after 6th Jan.

Which was the second company you kindly recommended?

 

[Brambles]

Ionic - who supply softener resin - or mol sieve.

Wrekin Water who supply spares and are experts in the components for Water Softeners. They also supply softener resin, but are more expensive than Ionic.

There are a number of other companies who provide similar services.

As a rule of thumb, if the expense to repair a domestic softener is more than £170 - I recommend a replacement. On a DIY basis, new mol seive, new O ring and potable silicon grease should be around £50.

Powdery hot water - ref your earlier post - is unlikely to be related to the softener. The mol sieve is hard and brown and there is a very very limited potential for the brine wash water to enter the softened water supply. I have never seen that happen.

 

[Brambles]

If the brine float assembly has not been installed correctly at the original installation, then that is probably the root of your problem. However, my understanding from your posting was that that the overflow issue has developed after a period of use, not from the point of installation?

 

[Fadburty]

If the brine float assembly has not been installed correctly at the original installation, then that is probably the root of your problem. However, my understanding from your posting was that that the overflow issue has developed after a period of use, not from the point of installation?

That is correct, I mean in the duration of the 5 years ownership of this water Softner. It has leaked few times from the overflow but once we put the salt in it stops leaking.

I havent previously taken notice of the level of water in the salt tank, and no one has touched the water Softner which makes me believe the brine float was installed upside down from day one.

After 2 days u believe the regeneration process has taken place as the level of water in the salt tank has increased. Does this mean the regeneration process takes place after two days? How would I be able to determine the brine float is sucking in the water?

Also, where does this water come from that fills the salt brine?

Many thanks
[automerge]1578155883[/automerge]
Apologies what is the correct level of water Vs salt should be in the salt tank?

 

[Brambles]

The recharge process either takes place after a certain volume of water has passed through the softener (metered softener) or after a fixed time interval (timed softener) - it depends on the type of softener. Timed softeners generally recharge once every 7 to 10 days.

The large disc on the top of the softener is the “softener valve”. When recharging the valve slowly rotates through 360 degrees over a period of around an hour. During that rotation various ports are opened / closed / interconnected allowing water into the softener / brine into the vessel for cleaning / fresh water for flushing et al - towards the end of that cycle one of the port positions allows fresh water to enter the chamber containing the salt to make brine. On most softeners, the volume of water allowed in is determined by the speed of the valve rotating (not adjustable) . In your softener there is also a level valve ( the float valve ) that (presumably) shuts off the flow at a predetermined level. The problem with level valves in the brine chamber is that they can inadvertently get disturbed or blocked when you refill the chamber with salt tablets.

If you have refitted the level valve, I would just monitor the brine overflow for a few weeks before probing any further for a possible cause. You have probably found and fixed the problem.

 

[Scalemaster guy]

If the brine float assembly has not been installed correctly at the original installation, then that is probably the root of your problem. However, my understanding from your posting was that that the overflow issue has developed after a period of use, not from the point of installation?

I know this is an old post,incase anyone else is looking
The float valve is upside down ....