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Hi, basic question, any insight much appreciated.

Looking to have an outdoor tap in my front porch fed from 15mm pex coming up from suspended floor. Pic 1 is inside porch, pex temporarily clipped to give an idea of pipe placement (ignore shoddy blockwork of booted cowboy builder!), Pic 2 is where copper hose union backplate will come out to eventual tap.

a.png


b.png


Inside porch will have plaster finish, don't want pipes on show, rather chased in wall!

To avoid having joints in wall guessing it would it be very bad practise to have a compression elbow joint at the point going through the cavity wall for joining pex to copper if buried in plaster, would it be better to have the pex to copper joint within the suspended floor below and copper running up all the way up and into the cavity? In that case is it permissable to have a soldered elbow joint into cavity, or even bent copper pipe, to avoid any joints in wall to a tap wall pipe flange? Final and dumb question but even possible to run pex all the way to the tap?

Thanks!
 
How are you going to isolate it in winter ?

Single piece of pex back to the kitchen sink with its own isolation and purge out port ?
 
Hi,
You could have copper from outside to below floor level then back to pex. As suggested allow for winter drain off. Suggest isolation in kitchen followed by a tee and drain valve, not forgetting an nrv after stop valve to stop any siphoning back to the mains. Also insulation of pipe under floor as it’s near airbrick and might freeze.
Regards,
Dave
 
Will be fed from downstairs bathroom, isolator will be in there.

Would use a speedfit / pipe manufacturers elbow in the wall
 
Hi Dave apologies could you explain this setup, struggling to follow!
Hi,
After the isolation valve you need a double check valve to prevent any back siphonage into the mains water normally. After the check valve a tee in the pipe with a drain fitted so in winter you can isolate the feed and drain the line from the tap to the drain to prevent freezing. It looks like you have an air brick on the same wall as the pipe is running so I’d advise insulating the pipe below the floorboards to prevent freezing if you get caught out in a cold snap as the cold air coming through the air brick might freeze the line. If dot and dabbing the wall where the pipes run up the wall you could insulate the pipe behind the plasterboard if you feel it’s necessary. Goes without saying, test all the pipework before closing things up.
Regards,
Dave
 

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