Radiator Balancing Problem

[Adam78]

Hi,

I have some radiators with old style valves and I think they need rebalancing as they arnt warming up whilst the radiators nearest to the boiler are really hot

I'm having difficulty identify which is the lockshield valve and which is the wheelhead valve. When I take the caps of both valves look identical - see attached pic.

However the only valve I'm able to turn is the one which had the lockshield cap and the one I'm unable to turn is the one which had the wheelhead cap - is this normal or has someone fitted the wrong caps on the wrong valve?

Do I need a spanner to turn the valve which has the wheelhead valve or is it suppose to not turn? Surely the feed which I'm assuming is the pipe whice heats up should have been set up to have a valve which turns.

Strangely in the next room I have a radiator with a reverse set up. The pipe which is getting hot first has a valve which turns but has a lockshied cap. Probaly to prevent people tampering with hit. However the retunr pipe on this radiator is cold and has a valve which I'm unable to turn and ironically it has a wheelhead valve.

Why the heck would plumbers design a system so inefficiently?

 

[Simon F]

the only difference between the valves is the cap!

the lock shield (cap that just spins without turning the valve) should be on the side that is balanced.
The other side with the turnable cap is to be able to turn the rad up/down if required, this is accomplished automatically when a thermostatic radiator valve is fitted.
if any valves are not turning with a spanner/grips, then it is seized up.

 

[Adam78]

the only difference between the valves is the cap!

the lock shield (cap that just spins without turning the valve) should be on the side that is balanced.

So which side should I be balancing?

 

[IDCHAPPY]

Preferably the lockshield but they both reduce flow through the radiator so do a similar job

 

[doitmyself]

Normally the lockshield valve is on the return pipe, i.e the cooler one.

The valves each end are probably identical. It's just the caps which are different, so you can swap them over.

If the valve is stiff, use a tool to start them moving, e.g adjustable spanner. Wind through the complete range to loosen them. You can use the wheel head to do this; it also makes balancing easier.


As for balancing, here's the quick way:

1. Remove all TRV heads and set all wheel valves to fully open.
2. Set all lockshield valves to 1/3 of a turn open from closed (fully clockwise).
3. Start boiler and allow system to warm up
4. Feel all return pipes (cooler one) to see how warm they are.
5. Select one which is midway between the hottest and coldest and use it as a 'standard'.
6. Any rad with a hotter return than the 'standard' should have the LS valve closed a tiny fraction.
7. Any rad with a cooler return should be open a tiny fraction.
8. Repeat 4 to 7 until all returns are approximately the same temperature.

Do no expect perfection. The adjustment each time is very small and you need to leave time (say 5 mins) between each adjustment for the system to settle down.

When finished, replace all TRV heads and set to required temperature. Set all wheel valves to required position.

 

[Simon F]

How To Balance Radiators | Homebuilding & Renovating

some bedtime reading.
flow or return (left or right) for the lock shield, won't really matter.

 

[Adam78]

If the valve is stiff, use a tool to start them moving, e.g adjustable spanner. Wind through the complete range to loosen them. You can use the wheel head to do this; it also makes balancing easier.

I've got water leaking now from the trying to turn the stiff valve? Is this valve knackerd?

 

[albatross]

The lack of knowledge displayed in your original post would lead me to advise you to call a heating engineer and get them to do it. It will work out cheaper. If you attempt this yourself you risk leaks, damaging valves and making things worse, costing you more.

 

[Howsie]

Hi,

...

Why the heck would plumbers design a system so inefficiently?

View attachment 16962

Good advice above.

Nothing wrong with the design, just your understanding of it.

 

[Adam78]

Normally the lockshield valve is on the return pipe, i.e the cooler one.

The valves each end are probably identical. It's just the caps which are different, so you can swap them over.

If the valve is stiff, use a tool to start them moving, e.g adjustable spanner. Wind through the complete range to loosen them. You can use the wheel head to do this; it also makes balancing easier.

So in the picture attached the caps must be correct i.e the lockshield cap is on the cooler pipe? However the valve with the wheel head cap is stuck or knackered but the pipe feeding it is really hot? I've tried turning it but it seems to be leaking now?

 

[doitmyself]

I've tried turning it but it seems to be leaking now?

Does it turn, even a little bit,or is it completely jammed?

If you do up the hex nut round the spindle a little, you should stop the leaking.

Is the rad in the pic hot or cold?