Lockshield valve's safety ring came off. Do I need to replace or put it back

[samsg30]

I nearly avoided completely unexpected disaster when opening the lockshield valve fully open as somehow the safety ring (as shown in pictures) came off due to which the small screw inside lockshield few away and water fountain came out. I haven't applied too much pressure to open the lockshield fully and just used standard L N key. TRV was fully open to number 5.

I managed to close the lockshield again after burning few fingers with hot water fountain and soaking carpet.
I tried same force on other similar lockshield in spare (from old radiator) and it was not possible to see safety brass ring coming off irrespective how tightly I try to open the valve with L N key.

Now, do you recommend replacing the lockshield (which means draining whole system, loosing £40 worth inhibitor which is added yesterday and paying plumber again for the same job which he did yesterday whilst replacing one of the other (working) lockshield with TRV.

OR

Just push the ring inside (which I did) but it is now very easy to take it out with little finger. I hammered it in gently as do not want to break copper joints which will be massive disaster in itself. I doubt if I go with second option and someone else try to open the lockshield for balancing etc, it may run into same issue.

Googling doesn't suggest any relevant article on similar issue.. looks like quite rare as I do not expect stop cocks / lockshields etc to fail like this.. can expect bit of a leak etc.

 

[JCplumb]

You're not having a great deal of luck with this system mate...
I'd get it changed if I were you.

 

[Howsie]

You should be able to repair them from another one.

 

[samsg30]

You should be able to repair them from another one.

Oh dear.. which means draining out system again? .. as if I understand, there's no way to take valve out without it? Can I get away with draining on part of the system by closing all TRVs and lockshield on all other radiators and close all cold water supply and megnaclean valves... this will keep inhibitor in all other radiators and I can top up slightly again.

Also is it advisable to pour inhibitor in loft tank which is easy and staright forward?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

as long as you dont back the valve past where the ring goes you will be fine, note if you do back the valve all the way water will come out (stops you going too far on the valve and there pressed in)

 

[Howsie]

Oh dear.. which means draining out system again? .. as if I understand, there's no way to take valve out without it? Can I get away with draining on part of the system by closing all TRVs and lockshield on all other radiators and close all cold water supply and megnaclean valves... this will keep inhibitor in all other radiators and I can top up slightly again.

Also is it advisable to pour inhibitor in loft tank which is easy and staright forward?

Either that or freeze it, bung or snatch it.

 

[samsg30]

as long as you dont back the valve past where the ring goes you will be fine, note if you do back the valve all the way water will come out (stops you going too far on the valve and there pressed in)

mmm... can I secure that ring back with melting lead .. just like joining the copper fittings together... that will be permanent and at least it will save water fountain if someone open it fully which can slightly overrun the original ring place. I have to hammer it really hard to hammer it back on original place which will be just too risky to break copper joints.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

mmm... can I secure that ring back with melting lead .. just like joining the copper fittings together... that will be permanent and at least it will save water fountain if someone open it fully which can slightly overrun the original ring place. I have to hammer it really hard to hammer it back on original place which will be just too risky to break copper joints.

its possible but i wouldn't, if your that concerned replace the valve (which will require either of the lads have said drain freeze etc)

Danfoss RLV-D Lockshield Valve 15mm 003L0203 | eBay

 

[SimonG]

Snatch. My favourite.

 

[samsg30]

Thanks for all the advise. I have decided to get the valve replaced by draining.

 

[Best]

Thanks for all the advise. I have decided to get the valve replaced by draining.

Safe but a big waste of time and inhibitor. It is only one "live" side to worry about.
And that can be prevented from having any pressure on it.
Identical valve will just straight swap in seconds for a plumber.
Probably could be done for labour with a local plumber cheaper than the inhibitor will cost you!

 

[samsg30]

Safe but a big waste of time and inhibitor. It is only one "live" side to worry about.
And that can be prevented from having any pressure on it.
Identical valve will just straight swap in seconds for a plumber.
Probably could be done for labour with a local plumber cheaper than the inhibitor will cost you!

Is that possible? How can I turn off water coming from that one live feed?

My understanding is, if I close the mains water stopcock as well as megnaclean stopcock for both return and flow, then there should be just enough water in pipes which can be contained in a bucket after opening that one "live" side??? And after replacing the valve, turn the water on including megnaclean valves and bleed the radiator.
BUT.. will this also remove the air from pipes or is there another way for bleeding pipe.

This radiator is on ground floor and cylinder is on 2nd floor.

 

[thereisawizza]

£40? What inhibitor are you using?

 

[Best]

Is that possible? How can I turn off water coming from that one live feed?

My understanding is, if I close the mains water stopcock as well as megnaclean stopcock for both return and flow, then there should be just enough water in pipes which can be contained in a bucket after opening that one "live" side??? And after replacing the valve, turn the water on including megnaclean valves and bleed the radiator.
BUT.. will this also remove the air from pipes or is there another way for bleeding pipe.

This radiator is on ground floor and cylinder is on 2nd floor.

You just need the pressure off the system. If there are other valves on the pipes, sometimes you can isolate using them.
But other than that, you have 4 choices, - drain it all and waste time and inhibitor, or partially drain to greatly remove the pressure, or have the system bunged, or just work live.
If it is in an area without carpets, I would consider snatching it.

 

[samsg30]

£40? What inhibitor are you using?

2 half liter bottle of Fernox F1 as I have got 15 rads in house. Each bottle is £20. I have got soft water so fernox seems suitable with it. There were other inhibitors in store which was only £6. Not sure if they are just for name sake or actually works. Sentinel 100 was only few quids cheaper that F1.

 

[samsg30]

You just need the pressure off the system. If there are other valves on the pipes, sometimes you can isolate using them.
But other than that, you have 4 choices, - drain it all and waste time and inhibitor, or partially drain to greatly remove the pressure, or have the system bunged, or just work live.
If it is in an area without carpets, I would consider snatching it.

New carpets installed 2 weeks back thus I am bit hesitant too much water spilling.

Partially draining seems feasible .. is below the correct steps?

1) close cold water feeding cistern in loft
2) Close flow and return valve in megnaclean
3) Drain the radiator(s) using the lowest drain valve. Will this partially drain the system?

 

[Best]

If you close the Magnaclean valves that wouldn't stop the water. The lockshield valve could be on a flow or return pipe. Your open vented system will draw water in while it can draw air in. You could isolate the f&e tank mains supply and turn both valves off on every rad to prevent most inhibitor loss.
The easiest way is to bung the tank pipes and if no auto vents are open, then all you will have is a small amount of water - perhaps half a bucket, to drain at that rad until flow stops.