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Hi,
I have a sealed & pressurized water system (house is around 10 years old) and a few weeks ago, the kitchen sink tap was spluttering quite loudly each time the cold/hot water was turned on elsewhere in the home. Called a local plumber, showed him what was happening and he said the PRV (pressure reducing valve) was faulty and needed replacing. This was replaced and this made a huge difference initially. However a week or so later, the same problem returned but not as bad as before. It happens less frequently and isn't as loud as before. See video here - the spluttering happens at 0:31


Anyway i called a different plumber for a different opinion last week and he couldn't find anything wrong! He did manage to fully open the valve marked below as he said "that was cracked" but the problem still exists. The video above I only made this morning so couldn't show him that at the time. I have arranged for him to come again to investigate further (will show him the above video) but in the meantime, could anyone tell me what is the likely cause of this spluttering? Perhaps the new PRV hasn't been installed properly or is faulty?

Some photos:





Cheers
 
Start with loosing the gate valve ( round red top ) and at the same time get the plumber to change the stop tap for the correct one .
Thanks but which is the red gate valve? One below the PRV or the one just above the hot water cylinder? And is the 'stop tap' the tap which turns on/off the water supply into the home, which is under my kitchen sink?
 
Its above the cylinder, I am not saying thats the problem but its the first thing I would loose , it shouldn’t be there and they are no good with mains pressure. Brass stop tap you marked cracked should be a full bore lever arm .
 
Ok an update. Had someone come over from the second plumbing company again this morning and they sent a different guy this time. I showed him the video, he had a quick look at everything and decided most likely the issue was at the hot water kitchen tap due to its age (around 11 years). He's replaced the valve there and the tap knob seems to turn smoother and so far I haven't had any spluttering...touch wood :)

I asked him about the necessity of the red gate valve, he said its there if you want to switch off the water supply to the hot water cylinder.

Re: brass stop tap which is non-lever type in my home, he said that's perfectly normal in a domestic environment.
 
I asked him about the necessity of the red gate valve, he said its there if you want to switch off the water supply to the hot water cylinder.

Re: brass stop tap which is non-lever type in my home, he said that's perfectly normal in a domestic environment.

Nothing for you to worry about but I disagree with him on the gate valve. As for the stoptap yes its ok ish but the regs say lever arm valve , so disagree again .
I am just a fussy **** lol
 
Nothing for you to worry about but I disagree with him on the gate valve. As for the stoptap yes its ok ish but the regs say lever arm valve , so disagree again .
I am just a fussy **** lol

Lever arm for what mate ?
 
I would be happy with a stop tap never seen a manufacturer/ regs say it must be a lever valve any chance of a screen shot ?
 
A stopcock is fine. Personally I prefer a fullbore lever valve but the Centre brand CentreStore manual I have here says "A stopcock or servicing valve".

Do other manufacturers say different?
 
Its above the cylinder, I am not saying thats the problem but its the first thing I would loose , it shouldn’t be there and they are no good with mains pressure. Brass stop tap you marked cracked should be a full bore lever arm .

Quite right, gate valves are for low pressure mainly
Also, gate valves should be installed on vertical pipes to prevent crud collecting in the bottom well which could prevent it closing
 

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